Home Yenisei, Podkamennaya Tunguska, its tributaries. Crystal-clear water, rapids, trout, grayling ... One just cannot not to fall in love with this place. I was here in 1978, 79 and then as a student in 1983. Since then, I was pulled here like by a magnet. So in a quarter century, I am here again!
Solovki Paris
This is Yenisei - the most powerful Siberian river and the village Vorogovo on its bank. After the four hours flight from Moscow to Krasnoyarsk, we went to Yeniseysk by road and took the ferry V.Chkalov by 4 class (ie on the upper deck).
The following evening we arrived to Bor - a little settlement on a steep bank of Yenisey, just in front of the mouth of Podkamennaya Tunguska - another great Eastern Siberian river. Yenisei is a few kilometers width here.
Bor is a central base for geologists and travelers. Only after you got here you can start planning and thinking about boats, helicopters and so on. There are always ready to help people. They live by means of the river and taiga.
The best way to get to a river for rafting is by helicopter. It isn't possible to get to upper reaches by a boat. So the next morning, having managed to get inflatable boats and provisions overnight, we landed on the Swan's River stretch.
So, my father, my nephew and I are on the Swan's River. The helicopter has just left, living us with river sound in silence. Beautiful weather, hundreds of kilometers of nobody around - dreams came true ...
The sun and the great blue sky, crystal water - you can see every little pebble on the opposite bank. This is a typical picture for upper reaches of Siberian rivers. only in a such clean water grayling and trout can live and thrive.
Sometimes when rifting, you have to pull the boat against the river. We missed the mouth of a rook - a good fishy place with guaranteed nibble. Thus, we are pulling our boat back a bit.
Here is the brook itself - named Kosoj (oblique). It runs from thick of the forest. It's a riot of green colors in Taiga in the summer. There is a decent size pool in front of brook's outfall, rich of graylings, and more.
This view is from the pool itself. There, right ahead on the left bank - we have just dragged our boat. Yet a little further on the right side - there is a little log hut, especially hidden from stranger's eyes and very hard to spot from the river.
This is the first hunter's log hut we found. You can use it for day or two in Siberia, especially if you leave something useful there in return. Prior to that, we slept two nights in a tent on the river's reaches... These are me, my nephew and my dad.
We had spent two nights and a whole day in the hunter's log hut, fished a lot of graylings, fried them in breadcrumbs. Nothing is more tastier than a freshly prepared graylings. Now we are rafting further. Here is an alone pine.
That is another hunter's hut - near
When turns sharply or gets around of its islands, a river forms such reaches. They are easy to pitch a tent. But one must be sure that the night wouldn't be rainy - high water rises very quickly and stream easily takes away a tent and belongings.
This is my dad. Our seven-day rafting had come to the end. We are on the Podkamennaya Tunguska River. We were about to be gone with wind into big waters, but we'd managed to pull out against the wind.
A little boat will take us back to Bor tomorrow and today is our last night in a tent on the beach. I do not know what kind of flowers it is, but, picturesquely scattered on the pebble beach slope of Podkamennaya, there are very beautiful.
The mouth of the Swan's River. View from the Podkamennaya Tunguska shore. By the way Swan's River is named after swans, which are nesting here. We wouldn't believe that if didn't see them by our very own eyes.
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